Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 3: Neckbands and Sleeve Tabs

Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 1: Interfacing and Placket

Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 2: Pockets and Yoke

Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 3: Neckbands and Sleeve Tabs

Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 4: Sleeve Binding and Sleeves

Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 5: Hem and Cuffs

Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 6: View A and Long Sleeves


Hi Cheyenne Sew Alongers!  Welcome to day 3, where we’ll tackle the neckbands and then the sleeve tabs (which are optional, of course!)

You should have two sets of front and back neckbands, one interfaced and one not.  Sew each pair right sides together at the shoulder seams with a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Press open the seam allowances.  The interfaced  one will be the neckband, the non-interfaced one will be the neckband facing.DSC_0096

On the neckband facing only, sew around the outer edge with a 3/8″ seam allowance.DSC_0099

Press the neckband facing to the wrong side along the seam.  Put it aside for now.DSC_0100

Pin the interfaced neckband right sides together with the shirt neckline.  First align the center notches and pin, then the shoulder notches and pin.  Continue to pin the neckband to the shirt between those pins.  Because you are pinning a concave curve to a convex curve, these will not be easy to align.  You may have to lift the shirt up as if it’s being worn to align the two.DSC_0101

Pin the notch in the front neckband to the outer plackets at the center fronts.  The neckband will overhang the placket.  Then continue pinning the front neckband up to the shoulder.  Again, you’ll have to lift the shirt in order to evenly pin the neckband around the neckline.  DSC_0104

Sew the neckband to the shirt using a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Press the neckband and the seam allowances up.DSC_0105

Pin the neckband facing right sides together with the neckband, aligning the shoulder seams and the front center curves.DSC_0107

Sew the neckband facing to the neckband using a 3/8″ seam allowance.  At the center fronts, sew as close to the outer placket as possible without catching it in your seam. DSC_0110

Cut the curves and clip notches around the neckline.DSC_0111

Flip the neckband facing to the inside of the garment and press it well.  Press the seam allowances up into the neckband.  Carefully pin the neckband facing to the neckband.  The more pins you use here, the more you’re guaranteed a good outcome in the next step.  I’m not a pinner by nature, but I encourage you to pin it up here as much as possible!DSC_0112

Top stitch around the neckband, catching the neckband facing underneath.  You have a couple options here.  You could just top stitch around the lower curve of the neckband to secure the facing.  Or, you could sew completely around the perimeter of the neckbands for some detail, as shown on this version. For either method, sew in the direction the way the pattern outlines: begin at the top of the center back, sew around the front, and then sew back to the lower back center.  Stop sewing and repeat those steps on the other side of the neckline.  This way you’re sewing in the same direction (toward the front of the neckband) on both sides which will help the neckband lay nicely.  This is another great place to use that spectacular edge stitching foot, if you have one 🙂

The sleeve tabs are optional, but they’re a great detail for your shirt, especially if you’re making the 3/4 length sleeves and plan to keep them rolled up most of the time.  Put a non-interfaced tab right sides together with an interfaced one.  Repeat for the other two tabs.DSC_0117

Sew them together along the sides and pointed edge with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Leave the lower edge open for turning.  Clip the corners of the seam allowances.DSC_0119

Use a bobkin or other turning tool to turn the tabs right side out.  Press the tabs very well and then edge stitch around the perimeter.DSC_0120

Sew the buttonholes where marked on the interfaced side of the tabs.DSC_0123

On the wrong side of the tabs, press the lower edge toward the wrong side by 1/2″.DSC_0124

Pin the tabs wrong side down on the wrong sides of the sleeves, aligning the center of the folded section with the marked point on the sleeve.DSC_0125

Sew the folded section to the sleeve by sewing in a rectangle and then optionally sewing an “x” inside the rectangle for stability.DSC_0126

On the right side of the shirt, sew a button directly over the stitched rectangle.DSC_0127

And you’re done for the day!  Meet me back here tomorrow and we’ll sew the sleeves!

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2 thoughts on “Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 3: Neckbands and Sleeve Tabs

  1. Reply
    August 25, 2019 at 4:44 pm

    This is the first shirt I have ever sewn and I have had a hard time with the next line. It is all bunched and does not look great. I think I am too far to fix it on this shirt but I would love advice for future shirts. It looks like the length of the neckline and the length of the neckband are not the same causing a lot of bunching. Thoughts and advice are appreciated. Cheers!

    • Reply
      August 27, 2019 at 10:00 am

      That part is a bit tricky if you haven’t had experience sewing collar stands. The collar stand should be longer than the neckline and hang off the center front up to the marked notch, as noted in the instructions. After pinning it there, I recommend pinning at CB and shoulder seams to make it easier to ease them together while sewing.

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