Biscayne Sew-Along Day 5: Arm Binding & Hemming
Biscayne Blouse Sew Along
Day 2: Plackets
Day 3: Pockets
Day 4: Neckbands
Day 5: Arm Binding & Hemming
It’s the final day of the Biscayne Blouse sew along! By the end of today you’ll yourself a brand new blouse to wear proudly about. Let’s dive right in with finishing the arms and hem!
First sew up the side seams using the same method you used at the shoulder seams to create a french seam. Sew the shirt WRONG sides together at the side seams using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Then press the seam to the back, flip the shirt so it is right sides together, and sew the side seam using a 3/8″ seam allowance, completely enclosing your first seam’s allowances.
If you are using store-bought single fold bias tape, press it open, and then press it in half, wrong sides together. If you are making your own, cut two strips at a 45 degree angle from the selvage that are 1.5″ wide and 27″ long. You can also piece together smaller strips if you don’t have very much fabric to work with.
Lay the bias binding against the right side of the shirt, with all three raw edges aligned. Pin it in place about an inch above the underarm seam, leaving at least an inch of binding hanging free beyond the seam.
Keeping the shirt out of the way, pull the bias binding away and use a pin to secure the ends of the tape together at the marked underarm seam points.
Now that the bias tape is sewn together, you can align the seam in the bias tape with the underarm seam and continue sewing to completely attach the bias tape to the arm. Make sure your seam allowances are pressed open. Trim your seam allowances to about 1/8″.
Now you will be understitching the bias tape, much like you did on the neckband. This will help your tape flip to the inside better and also give a very professional finished result. On the inside of the shirt, sew the trimmed seam allowances to the bias tape all the way around the arm. Be sure not to catch the shirt in this seam. Your finished result will look best if you maintain an even and close distance to the original seam.
When your understitching is finished, you can flip the bias binding to the inside of the shirt. Press it really well and pin in place. Then, from the inside of the shirt, edge stitch along the fold of the bias tape to secure it to the shirt. Go slowly and sew evenly because your bobbin thread will show on the right side of the shirt.
And that, dear sewists, is it! Your Biscayne Blouse is finished! You should feel such a huge sense of accomplishment every time you wear your blouse. It’s a bit of a labor of love, but your shirt is beautiful inside and out and you mastered some intermediate sewing techniques along the way! Congratulations!
We’d all love to see your finished Biscayne Blouses, so be sure to leave your blog link in the comments, tag it on social media using #BiscayneBlouse, or join the Hey June Patterns Facebook group and share it there! If you have a website, I’d love to pin your finished creations to my Hey June gallery board on pinterest also.