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October 6, 2020 ·

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Tutorials· Women's Patterns

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Here’s a super simple modification you can do to any pattern with a set-in sleeve to give it some volume! I especially love it in knit because it adds just the right amount of interest to a wardrobe staple. You can still throw it on with jeans and sneakers for a casual outfit, but it gives it a little extra drama.

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

I chose the Union St Tee for my hacks because I wanted a shirt that was slim but not fitted, and I wanted the long sleeve to be fitted even with the added volume at the top. Note that if you want to add fullness to the full length of the sleeve, you will need to use this tutorial.

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Step 1. Using a ruler, draw a line horizontally at the bottom of the sleeve cap. At the center, draw a vertical line. Then draw two diagonal lines from each side of the sleeve cap toward the center (the position doesn’t need to be precise). Cut through all 4 lines, but leave a hinge at the bottom of the two diagonal lines (shown with a dot in these illustrations). Slide a piece of paper under the sleeve cap so you can affix your altered pieces to it in a later step.

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Step 2. Raise each side of the sleeve cap 3″ from the center point. Note that increasing or decreasing this amount will increase or decrease the amount of “puffiness” in the sleeve cap, respectively.

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Step 3: Rotate the hinged center pieces so the inner cut lines are once again vertical, opening up a dart through the side of each sleeve cap.

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Step 4: Tape all the loose pieces down to the paper below the sleeve cap to hold them in place. Trace your new sleeve cap pattern, adding another 2″ to the center height. Smooth out the sides of the new cap so they meet at the notches. Transfer notches to the new sleeve cap and cut the sleeves as indicated in the pattern.

Puff Sleeve Tutorial

And that’s it! So simple, right? You can alter the two vertical measurements given in this tutorial to suit your needs. If you only want the slightest bit of volume added, I suggest reducing the first measurement to 1.5″, and leaving the second measurement at 2″. Here is an example of how that looks in a finished sleeve:

If you use this tutorial, please share it on social media with #HeyJunePatterns, #UnionStTee, and tag me @HeyJuneHandmade so we can all see it!

Puff Sleeve Tutorial
Puff Sleeve Tutorial

Sources

Hat: old

Fabric: rayon spandex from the stash, maybe originally from Raspberry Creek Fabrics

Jeans: AG Denim

Brogues: Amazon (aff link)

Previous Post: « Dropped Sleeve Brunswick Tutorial
Next Post: Short Banded Puff Sleeve Tutorial »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Meghan says

    October 6, 2020 at 6:11 pm

    I was looking for a way to do this very thing just last week. Can’t wait to hack my Union St. tee! Love your shoes by the way!

  2. Karen Greenhalgh says

    October 7, 2020 at 4:08 am

    Love this, thanks for making it so straight forward and easy to understood

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