• Account
  • Gift Card
  • Affiliate Program
  • Wholesale Accounts
  • FAQ
  • Nav Social Menu

    • Email
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • Pinterest
    • Twitter
  • 0 items$0.00
Hey June Handmade

Hey June Handmade

  • Shop
    • Women’s Patterns
    • Tops
    • Bottoms
    • Dresses And Jumpsuits
    • Juniors Patterns
    • Free Patterns
    • All
    • Gift Card
    • Paper Patterns
  • Blog
    • Women’s Patterns
    • Juniors Patterns
    • Kid’s Patterns
    • Free Patterns
    • Other Sewing
  • Tutorials
  • Sew Alongs

December 1, 2017 ·

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Women's Patterns

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Hi lovely sewists!  I have such a treat for you today.  Patti from Simple.Blessed has written a tutorial for all of us to mash up the Santa Fe Top and Willamette Shirt!  Pattern mash-ups are a little bit more involved than a small hack, but if you’re willing to flex a little sewing muscle you’ll end up with a pattern for this gorgeous top that you can use over and over.  Plus her mash up celebrity name for it is hilarious to me (hint: you have to already be pronouncing Willamette correctly for it to work!)  Take it away Patti!

~~~~~~~~~~~

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

One of my favorite ways to get inspiration for new sewing projects is by browsing pictures of ready-to-wear clothes.  While browsing on Instagram, I came across a shirt that was just screaming to be made from a mash up of two HJ patterns – the Willamette and the Santa Fe.  The Willame-Fe!  With a little hand-holding from Adrianna, I was able to make a version that I personally think is pretty darn cute.  Here’s how you can do it, too. 😉

Start by printing View A of the Willamette and View C of the Santa Fe.  You will mostly be using the Willamette, but you will want to use the side angle of the Santa Fe.Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

For this look, you want the front to be cut on the fold – draw a line extending the vertical stitch line up to the neckline to use as the fold line (the red arrow points to this line).  To create the v-neck, draw a line from the top of the optional button mark up to the neckline like in the picture (the blue arrow points to this line).Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Put your Santa Fe pattern piece underneath and align the curves of the under arm area, keeping the center front of both pattern pieces parallel to each other.  Remove the excess paper along the fold line and near the sleeve, which is shown in red on the picture.Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

To create the same side angle on your back piece, line up your new front pattern piece on the back pattern piece of the Willamette, matching the “Tape piece here for view A” lines, and trace the side.  The front pattern piece is shown in blue on these pictures for clarity.Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

You will need to alter the collar piece as well so that it doesn’t come all the way to the front.  Measure the distance from the notch marking to the spot you started your v-neck (the distance shown in yellow on the picture).  Subtract a ½ inch from your measurement and remove that much from the length of your collar (note that I didn’t subtract a ½ inch, but I wish my collar came a little farther forward, so you can learn from my experience!).  Make sure your new collar piece has the same angle as the original collar piece.Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial

The last pattern piece that needs to be altered is the front facing piece.  Match the neckline on your facing piece with the neckline on your front pattern piece and trace your new neckline and front.  Measure down about 2 inches from the bottom of your V and remove the bottom portion of the facing. Santa Fe | Willamette Mash-up Tutorial Your pattern pieces will now look like this.

Now, I *thought* you could just construct the garment the same way as the instructions tell you to, but it turns out that you can only do the burrito method when a pattern has two front pieces.  Otherwise you try to pull it out of the burrito and it doesn’t happen… ask me how I know…

SO, you do need to change it up a bit…

  • Complete the back pleat per the Willamette instructions, steps 1-5.
  • Attach the lower back piece to the back yoke only (not the back yoke lining) with a 5/8” seam allowance
  • Attach the front and back at the shoulders with a 5/8” seam allowance, press seam allowance to the back
  • Finish the side and bottom edges of the front facing by serging or with a zig-zag stitch
  • Attach the front facing and back yoke lining at the shoulders (the facing will not be as wide as the back yoke lining), press seam allowance to the back
  • Memory press the bottom of the back facing up 5/8″ toward the wrong side
  • Make the collar per the instructions in step 20
  • Baste the collar to the neckline of the shirt,
  • Put the facing/lining pieces right sides together with the shirt and pin around the neckline.  Stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance.
  • Clip the seam allowance around the curves
  • Understitch by stitching the facing/lining pieces to the seam allowance, close to the edge.  Make sure not to catch the collar in your stitches.
  • This is the tricky part!  With right sides together, sew the back yoke lining shoulder seam to the shoulder seam allowance.  You can’t get all the way to the neckline, but you should be able to get within about an inch or so.
  • To attach the bottom of the back yoke lining, fold under where you did a memory press earlier and pin in place at the bottom of the back yoke.  Edgestitch along the bottom of the back yoke, catching the back yoke lining with your stitches.

Continue with the regular instructions starting at step 34.

~~~~~~~~~~~

Thank you so much for the tutorial Patti!  Your two tops are gorgeous and perfect for day-to-night wear.  Make sure you’re all following Patti – she’s pretty much my style hero and I want to copy everything she sews!

Previous Post: « Holiday Coram Dress
Next Post: Cropped Aurora Tee »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Emily says

    December 6, 2017 at 11:31 pm

    This is so cool and pretty!!

Primary Sidebar

Welcome to Hey June! I'm so glad you're here. Whether you're an experienced sewist or a beginner, I aim to provide simple, modern sewing patterns that are as fun to sew as they are to wear. Read More…

Never miss a post, sale, or new pattern!

Categories

  • Free Patterns
  • Juniors Patterns
  • Kid's Patterns
  • Other Sewing
  • Sew Alongs
  • Tutorials
  • Women's Patterns

looking for something?

Disclaimer: Amazon Affiliate links are sometimes used in blog posts.

heyjunehandmade

After five different iterations, I've settled on w After five different iterations, I've settled on what I believe to be the easiest and most guaranteed successful way to sew convex and concave "V"s. (Spoiler: simple is almost always best!). Luckily this one didn't take too much experimentation.  I can remember a few tricky techniques where I ended up using paper towels because I was tired of using up so much muslin 🙈⁣
⁣
Everything is figureoutable!  That's my mantra, and it's always my goal to find ways to make sewing up HJ patterns as easy as possible for you.
⁣
Excited to get this pattern out to you in the next month or so. It's been my cozy winter lockdown outfit all week ☺️⁣
⁣
#SitkaSweatshirt #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
I do believe this is the first year my favorite th I do believe this is the first year my favorite thing has been in my top 9!! (Albeit last, but victory nonetheless!!🧡) Just wanted to say thank you all for being here and for your support throughout the year.  I hope you are all safe and well.  Cheers to 2021 🥂⁣
⁣
Patterns featured by row:⁣
⁣
- #AllspiceApron ⁣
- #VeroBeachSet ⁣
- #SeaforthPants ⁣
⁣
- #GreerJumpsuit ⁣
- #UnionStTee colorblock tutorial⁣
- #WheatonWindbreaker ⁣
⁣
- bottoms hacked from #SanibelDressandRomper, top self drafted⁣
- #UnionStTee dress⁣
- modified #BrunswickPullover (aka: the best one 😁)
Faux fur blankets are everywhere this year and the Faux fur blankets are everywhere this year and they make a great gift, but they are $$$. Make your own for a fraction of the price with super soft (non-sheddy!) faux fur from @fabricwholesaledirect and the tutorial on the blog today!⁣
⁣
hot holiday tip for procrastinators: you can sew this up in minutes the night before 😉⁣🎁
⁣
#fauxfurthrow #fauxfur #sewingtutorial #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diy #memadeeveryday #isew #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
Are you sewing any handmade gifts this year? I de Are you sewing any handmade gifts this year?  I designed the free Allspice Apron pattern just for you!  It is multi-sized, uses minimal fabric, and only has 2 pattern pieces!  This crossover apron style is my favorite and works for everyone, especially in a beautiful wrinkly linen.  Pair it with a new kitchen gadget (ideas in the post!) or some yummy baked goods for the perfect gift this season or any time!⁣
⁣
Grab the free pattern and see the instructions in the blog post today!⁣
⁣
#AllspiceApron #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
A mini video series of sewalongs for the Wheaton w A mini video series of sewalongs for the Wheaton welt pocket is on the blog today!  I split these videos up to make it easier to find the exact step you need if you're having a little trouble.  Overall, this pocket is really straightforward and simple if you take it one step at a time!  I love the wider channel-stitched welt lips and I made mine extra cozy by using flannel for the pocket bags! ⁣
⁣
The sitewide sale is still going strong too, including the new Wheaton Windbreaker!  Save 20% through Nov 30 with code "Thanks20".⁣
⁣
#WheatonWindbreaker #HeyJunePatterns #sewalong #SewingTutorial #WeltPocket #WeltPocketTutorial #ithaspockets #indiepattern #sewingpattern
All of the testers' Wheaton Windbreakers are on th All of the testers' Wheaton Windbreakers are on the blog today!  Take a break today with a beverage and a scroll for some serious inspiration!  They used so many different substrates and colors, like this beautiful rust version from @teridodds1 ❤️. Thank you to all of my testers for doing such amazing, creative work and inspiring all of us!⁣
⁣
#WheatonWindbreaker #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
Introducing the Wheaton Windbreaker! Wheaton is a Introducing the Wheaton Windbreaker!  Wheaton is a lightweight cropped jacket with a center zipper and 3 piece hood.  It features welt pockets and a separate waistband with decorative stitching, long dolman sleeves, and an elasticated wrist.  Wheaton is available in sizes 0-30 and can be made in almost any apparel weight woven!⁣
⁣
Wheaton is included in the semi-annual sitewide sale starting today and going through Nov 30! Use code "thanks20" for 20% off all regularly priced pdf and paper patterns!!⁣

Thank you to @popofneutral for modeling!!
⁣
#WheatonWindbreaker #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
Nothing scarier than hearing the serger running in Nothing scarier than hearing the serger running in your sewing room when you're not in your sewing room 😱. But this girl decided to get up and make herself a Nikko Top and I'm so proud 🙌. I haven't really taught my kids to sew, but I'm happy they're getting into it on their own anyway.  I'll be here to nurture their interest and attach arm bindings when they ask though!  How are you approaching this skill with the next generation?⁣
⁣
#NikkoTop #truebiaspatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
Sharing a giant sneak peek of our next pattern tod Sharing a giant sneak peek of our next pattern today because the fabric I used and loved is on sale!⁣
⁣
@raspberrycreekfabrics is starting their black Friday sale early so you can have your holiday fabrics in hand and start sewing now! ⁣
⁣
@littlebitco and I both used their linen rayon for this project and it works fabulously - highly recommend!  Plus, it comes in several gorgeous colors.  I used rust, naturally 💁🏼‍♀️🧡⁣
⁣
Swipe to see the fabric recs and reqs for this pattern and keep an eye out for it in a few weeks!!⁣
⁣
#comingsoon #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
Grabbed all* my supplies to sit in bed, watch a mo Grabbed all* my supplies to sit in bed, watch a movie, and sew buttons on my two new button-ups.  Can you tell what I'm missing? This is what happens to a chronically anti-hand-sewing person 🤦🏼‍♀️⁣
⁣
*All =/= all ⁣
⁣
#CheyenneTunic #AmherstShirt #HeyJunePatterns #sew #sewist #seweveryday #handmadewardrobe #handmade #sewistsofinstagram #sewistsgonnasew #sewcialists #diyfashion #memadeeveryday #memadewardrobe #imakemyclothes #isew #isewmyclothes #sewingpattern #sewingtutorial #sewingblogger #instasew #slowfashion #modernsewist
Load More Follow on Instagram
  • About
  • Contact
  • FAQ
  • Policies
  • Positions

Copyright Hey June Handmade © 2021 · Log in