Comments on: What is Style Ease? (And why the term “runs big” should never be used)

By: Karen

Karen — Mon, 13 Jan 2020 15:23:35 +0000

In reply to Annie.

Thanks for this clear explanation of all types of ease!
Another comment I think should be abolished is “this pattern fits great!”. Unless, if they add (as you mentioned) “… for me”. If it fits great, it’s a good match for your body size and shape (but maybe not for my size and shape).

By: Les

Les — Sat, 11 Jan 2020 14:19:28 +0000

Thanks for some good information about positive, negative and zero ease. You are so right that noting the ease and pairing the pattern with the fabric most suited for it can make a world of difference in how it turns out. Additionally, giving specific measurements you change to create a different effect in the garment is very helpful to other sewists who embark on making it. However, when a pattern does in fact, measure larger or smaller than the pattern maker’s indicated finished measurements for the size made….. then YES! In that case, stating that the pattern “runs big” or “runs small” is actually correct and possibly a nice way of stating the condition!! Ha! It does happen! Of course specifics like, “In making the size X of this pattern, I found it resulted in a waist measurement of 32 inches in the finished garment though the pattern states that the finished measurement would be 30.” – are certainly more tangibly beneficial. Fauke’s comments regarding misleading cover art are on point as well. Just my thoughts. Thanks for sharing yours.

By: Addie

Addie — Fri, 10 Jan 2020 17:08:12 +0000

Thank you for clarifying and explaining these terms. I am often frustrated by reading reviews and commentaries on sewing blogs where the writer does not understand these terms. I find I have to disregard the entire review because people confuse the intended fit of the design with achieving the particular fit she is looking for without regarding the design ease that is intended. Often the pattern is blamed (not only big four, Indies too) which is incredibly misleading.

I would like to ask sewing pattern designers to include on pattern descriptions the intended design ease in detail: a loose fitting shirt with 6-9″ of design ease intended (less for smaller sizes and more for larger ones). Also in sew-a-longs, in the first post on choosing your size, both the wearing and design ease could be explained in more detail, ideally with photos of people of different sizes wearing the garment in the size that matches their measurements.

By: Annie

Annie — Thu, 09 Jan 2020 19:02:06 +0000

In reply to Julia. Kudos to them for not buying into the vanity thing, but doesn't help new sewers at all. Maybe something could be added to the sizing on the pattern envelopes to explain the difference? Indie pattern makers are the best! Look out Big Four!

By: Frauke

Frauke — Thu, 09 Jan 2020 14:32:32 +0000

To be fair, there are sometimes patterns where what seems to be the intended fit when looking at the cover art and what you get when making the size that corresponds to your measurements in the size chart do not match at all. Indie patterns mostly don’t do this, but the Big 4 absolutely do (burda doesn’t though). There is sometimes no way that the model is wearing the size corresponding to their measurements, which is extremely frustrating for beginners who don’t yet have a clear idea what x inches of ease look like and rely on cover art. Then you stand in front of a mirror in a sack three sizes too large looking nothing like the cover art and are absolutely justified in thinking it “runs big”, even if the finished measurements, if provided, are true. It takes some experience to be able to foresee this and know what ease is needed.

As I said, indies mostly don’t do this and some even state the model’s measurements and garment size they are wearing, which I LOVE. Such useful information, as is looking at pictures from other people who made the garment. I agree with your post that clear information, ideally the raw numbers, is really key in understanding what you will get.

By: Julia

Julia — Thu, 09 Jan 2020 05:15:12 +0000

In reply to Annie.

Annie – the disconnect between pattern sizing and RTW sizing is due to the advent of “vanity sizes”; RTW manufacturers decided to lower the numbering system so that women would feel less bad when they bought clothes in the correct size. The sewing pattern industry didn’t buy into it, so their system is the original size system from several decades ago.

By: Annie

Annie — Thu, 09 Jan 2020 00:33:36 +0000

Women’s sizing is all over the board! I hate mail order shopping cuz you never know what you’ll get — seems like every clothing designer/manufacturer uses a different fit model (and all kinds of “names” for unique “fits”). And the “big three” pattern companies have very strange size numbering — in RTW, I generally wear a 2 or 4, whereas in McCalls or Butterick, my measurements put me at a solid 12! What the heck? My limited experience with the new indie pattern makers has been more positive. I find that I’m looking at the measurements more (that they are faithful to!) as opposed to a pre-numbered “size”. Plus, I can make adjustments so it fits ME, not somebody’s fit model! I do love the posts of finished pieces on social media because they help me figure out what fabric to use and what looks good on a body similar to mine. Thank you for this informative article!

By: Kristie

Kristie — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 23:37:30 +0000

I LOVE this post! And I will work hard to make sure I use the proper terminology in the future. And I will make sure I work harder at reading the patterns. I consider myself an intermediate sewist. So this information is very helpful. Thank you for helping me to understand!

By: Louise

Louise — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 22:22:25 +0000

An interesting read, I particularly like that you suggest alternative language to use. I don’t see design and wearing ease differentiated between that often, and I think it’s useful.

By: Ros

Ros — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 22:00:33 +0000

I agree with 99% of this, (and 100% with sewing patterns) but I think there are times when it is true of RTW clothes. If I buy all my clothes from a store in size x and they have a size chart (which can only be a guide if they are making clothes of all styles and shapes) and out of my 10 skirts in size x 9 fit my waist perfectly, but one of them falls off me, I would be tempted to describe it as running large and to advise sizing down. In rtw reviews these reviews are often correct because the reviwer will also be a regular shopper and therefore used to knowing they will always be a size x at this shop too.

I do look at rtw reviews for those sorts of comments and if there is a theme of ‘runs big/small’ I will usually take their advice if shopping online.