Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along Day 5: Hem and Cuffs
Welcome to the final day of the Cheyenne Tunic Sew Along! You guys are doing great, and you’re almost finished! Today will be easy breezy and when you’re done you can give your shirt a final press, strip off your clothes in the middle of your sewing area, put your new shirt on and take a selfie (I know I’m not the only person who does that!)
We left with a completed sleeve, and the next obvious step would be side seams, but we’re going to do it a little bit differently for this pattern. Since the hem curve is so pronounced, especially on the tunic, it can be cumbersome and even impossible to do a double turned hem. By sewing the front and back hems before sewing the side seam, we’re eliminating that tough side seam hem curve area.
So, first fold the hem up by 1/4″ and press well. Then turn up another 1/4 and press again, inserting pins as you go. You’ll be creating a hem on the front and back (or fronts and back for View A).
Now that the hems are finished we can move on to the side seams. Once again, we’ll be constructing French seams for the sleeve and side seam. If you don’t want a French seam, sew the sleeves and shirt right sides together using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
For the French seam, lay your shirt RIGHT side out and align the raw edges of your sleeve and side seam. Starting at the wrist hem, sew toward the underarm using a 3/8″ seam allowance. At the underarm, stop and pivot with the needle down to continue sewing down the side seam. Just like the sleeve, trim this seam allowance to 1/8″.
At the hem along the side seam, you may want to tack down the French seam to keep everything flat and neat. Press the french seam toward the back and sew a short vertical tacking stitch on the right side of the back of the shirt, catching the French seam on the inside.
Because the cuffs are mirror images of one another, lay out your sleeves and cuffs to make sure you’re attaching the correct ones. The cuff with the button hole on the right side will go on the left sleeve (as pictured here). As you can see, the button hole will be below the overlap on the sleeve binding.
On the right side of the cuff, top stitch around the entire perimeter, starting at the top center of the cuff. Sew toward the edge, then down and around the entire cuff until you reach the point where you began. Leave your needle down and pivot at each corner.
And that’s it! You’re finished! Congratulations on making your Cheyenne View B! I’d love to see your finished shirts – throw them up on Instagram with hashtag #CheyenneTunic or join the Hey June Facebook group and share your pictures there so we can all admire them! There’s also a ton of support over there if you have any questions from anything from pattern construction to choosing fabric 🙂
If you’d like to make a View A or long sleeves, you can follow along with most of these steps, but come back tomorrow for some pictures of the trickier parts.